Four tools for a car audio subwoofer build. One prepares the music for your enclosure: it shows where the bass actually sits, cuts out the sub band, and retunes it down to where your box hits hardest. The rest handle the hardware: how to wire the subs, what LTO pack you need underneath, and where to set the gain.
Load a track, see where the bass energy really is, cut out the sub band — then retune it down to your enclosure's tuning frequency.
Tell it how many subs you have, single or dual voice coil, and what impedance — it works out every possible wiring, the final load, and which wire goes where.
A sine for setting gain, a slow sweep for hunting rattles and cabin resonance, and burp bursts for measuring — saved as WAV too.
For SQ: measure how far each speaker is from your head and get the delay needed to bring the stereo image back to the centre.
How many cells, what voltage, how much internal resistance — and how far the voltage drops once the amplifier pulls on it.
What voltage to set the gain to, how thick the power cable needs to be, and what fuse belongs in front of it. Calculated, not guessed.
What this is. A few small tools I put together for car audio SPL builds. Everything runs in your browser, there is no sign-up, and the music you load never leaves your machine — decoding, analysis and WAV writing all happen locally.
Worth keeping in mind. The sub cutter tells the truth about the recording, not about the inside of your car: enclosure tuning, trunk resonance and cabin gain will redraw all of it. The wiring guide works with nominal impedance — a multimeter will always read less than that, and that is exactly as it should be.